How to Get a Closer Shave with a Safety Razor

Trying to get a close shave, equivalent to that of a cartridge razor, is quite challenging for folks using a safety razor. In fact, one of the most common complaints people have when first using them is that they can’t seem to achieve the desired closeness as the razor leaves behind a fair amount of stubble.

However, to master the art of a close shave with a safety razor, it is essential to ensure proper technique and preparation.

This guide will walk you through the steps necessary to achieve that highly sought-after baby butt smooth shave while minimizing irritation and nicks.

Here are the fundamentals of mastering a close shave with a safety razor:

Achieving the Perfect Angle for a Smooth Shave

One of the most critical factors to consider when shaving with a safety razor is the angle at which you hold the razor. To achieve an optimal shave, hold the razor at a 30-degree angle relative to your skin.

Now don’t worry, you don’t need to carry a protractor with you into the bathroom. Just press the razor cap perpendicular to your face, with the handle sticking straight out, and then angle it halfway down (this will be approximately 45 degrees) and then slightly down a little bit more to reach the desired 30-degree angle.

With a little practice, you’ll get the hang of it and maintain the angle intuitively as you shave.

But, why does this matter?

Keeping the angle consistent while shaving allows the blade to cut your facial hair efficiently and cleanly, reducing the risk of irritation. If the angle is too shallow, the razor may not actually cut the hair, leading to a less effective shave. If the angle is too steep, you are just scrapping the razor on your face, and not really cutting the hair, which can cause mild irritation.

Pro Tip: You’ll know you hit the optimal angle as the razor makes a distinct “shaving sound” when it glides smoothly over your skin, effectively cutting the hairs without causing discomfort.

Utilizing Short Strokes for Enhanced Precision

While it may be tempting to use long, continuous strokes when using a safety razor, short strokes are the key to a close and precise shave. The strokes should be no longer than a few inches at a time and should be slightly overlapping to ensure that you are not missing any hairs.

This method allows for better control and adaptation to the contours of your face and ensures that all the facial hair is evenly and effectively removed. Additionally, short strokes with a light touch help minimize the risk of nicks and irritation, as they allow you to maintain the proper angle and pressure more consistently across the different curves of your face.

Understanding Hair Growth Patterns for a Closer Shave

Knowing which direction your hair grows in, also known as the grain, is crucial for a closer and more comfortable shave. Here’s how to determine your hair growth pattern:

• Shave with the Grain for Reduced Irritation: Before beginning your shave, take a moment to examine the direction of your hair growth on your face. Shaving with the grain (in the same direction as your hair growth) results in a smoother and less irritating shave. For individuals with sensitive skin, following the hair growth pattern is essential to avoid razor burn and ingrown hairs.
• Try a Second Pass for an Even Closer Shave: For a closer shave, a second pass can be performed. After completing your first pass with the grain, reapply your shaving cream or soap, and shave across the grain (perpendicular to the hair growth direction). This second pass will remove any remaining stubble and provide a closer shave without causing significant irritation.
• Consider a Third Pass Against the Grain for the Closest Shave: If you desire an ultra-close shave, consider making a third pass against the grain (opposite the direction of hair growth). Keep in mind that this technique may increase the risk of irritation and ingrown hairs, so it’s essential to use caution and pay close attention to your skin’s reaction.

Applying Gentle Pressure for a Comfortable Experience

When using a safety razor, let the razor’s weight and sharpness do the work. While it may seem like you should apply more pressure to achieve a closer shave, doing so can lead to razor burn, nicks, and irritation.

Instead, use a light touch and gentle pressure when shaving, allowing the razor to glide smoothly across your skin. No matter which brand of razor blade you are using, the blade’s edge is sharp enough to cut through the hair without the need for excessive force.

Want to learn more tips on shaving with a safety razor? We put together a guide of the top 11 tips for a perfect safety razor shave.

Preparing Your Skin Properly

Pre-shave prep is just as important, if not more so than the actual shaving process. Investing time in prepping your skin can make a significant difference in the quality and comfort of your shave. Ideally, you’ll want to start by taking a hot shower and cleansing your face with a mild facial cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and dead skin cells.

If you are short on time, a hot towel can be applied to your face for a few minutes to soften the facial hair and open up the pores. This will make it easier for the razor to glide across the skin and cut the hair without causing irritation.

Don’t overlook the importance of using quality shaving products to prepare your skin for a comfortable and close shave.

Traditional wet-shaving products, such as a shaving brush along with shaving creams or soaps, can create a thick, protective lather that allows the razor to glide effortlessly over your skin. Once you incorporate these products into your shaving routine, you’ll notice a significant difference in the shave quality and the amount of hair you are able to remove in a single pass.

Pro Tip: Some folks find that pre-shave oil can also enhance their shaving experience. Pre-shave oils add an extra layer of lubrication and protection, reducing friction between the razor and your skin.

Keep Your Razor Clean for Optimal Performance

While safety razors aren’t nearly as susceptible to clogging as cartridge razors, it’s still essential to keep them clean to ensure optimal performance.

When the razor starts to clog, flip it over and use the other side of the double-edged blade. Rinse your razor frequently to ensure that it remains clean and efficient throughout your shave.

Open comb safety razors have an advantage in this aspect, as their design allows for easier rinsing and reduced clogging. Regardless of the type of safety razor you use, regular maintenance and thorough cleaning after each use will prolong the life of your razor, maintain the sharpness of the blades, and provide you with a consistently

Additional Tips for Enhanced Shaving Results

Here are a few more tips to help you achieve the best possible shave:

• Use a Blade “Shim” for Increased Blade Exposure: If you find that your safety razor isn’t providing the closeness you desire, consider using a blade “shim” to increase the blade’s exposure. A shim is a small piece of metal placed between the razor head and the blade, creating a more aggressive razor feel. Here is a great thread over at Badger and Blade that goes into more detail on this topic.
• Experiment with High-Performance Razor Blades: Safety razor blades come in various performance levels, so don’t be afraid to try different brands and styles to find the one that works best for you.
• Consider a More Aggressive Razor for Experienced Shavers: If you’re an experienced wet shaver and desire an even closer shave, consider using a more aggressive razor. These razors typically have a more substantial blade gap and increased blade exposure, providing a closer shave for those with coarser hair or thicker beards.
• Aftershave Balms and Lotions: To soothe and moisturize your skin after shaving, apply an aftershave balm or lotion. These products can help reduce irritation, redness, and razor burn while promoting healthy skin recovery. Look for products with natural ingredients and avoid those with high alcohol content.