Introduced in 1680 in Sheffield, England, the straight razor is the oldest shaving tool used by folks today. While it has fallen out of popularity with other modern types of razors, the straight razor still holds a place in many people’s hearts.
Whether researching the tool or on the hunt for a new razor or hobby, this guide will explain everything you need to know about straight razors.
Who uses them?
Unlike other shaving tools that focus on safety or convenience, a straight razor is a raw tool that requires patience and skill. But once mastered, the straight razor provides a reliable shave and a therapeutic experience that is unmatched by other shaving tools.
Folks who use straight razors want to rediscover the lost art of shaving. They are looking for a tool that is not only reliable but also a tool that they can use to connect with their grandfather or great-grandfather.
Straight razor anatomy
When looking at the straight razor, there are a lot of little nuances in the design. From the heel to the toe, jimps, and shanks, all the little details make the straight razor what it is.
Here’s a summary of each part of the straight razor:
- Spine: The spine is the large part of the razor that runs along the back of the blade.
- Head: Sometimes referred to as the point, impacts how the razor performs and the precision of the blade.
- Toe: The endpoint of the blade.
- Edge: The edge is the area of the blade that is actually used to cut the hair.
- Face: Often contains the manufacturer’s name and other information.
- Heel: The beginning of the blade.
- Jimps: Jimps are the indentations on the spine of the razor that allow your fingers to get a better grip on the razor.
- Wedge Pin: The wedge pin is the small pin that holds the scales in place.
- Scales: The scales are the wooden, ivory, or plastic pieces that house the blade when not used.
- Pivot Pin: Allows the blade to pivot when opened and closed.
- Tang: This is where you’ll rest your fingers to counterbalance the blade.
- Shank: The bar that bridges the gap between the scales and the blade.
- Shoulder: The shoulder of the razor is the area of the blade just behind the edge.
Blade types
Straight razors are often made from either stainless steel or carbon steel.
Stainless steel blades are more durable and don’t require as much maintenance as carbon steel blades. They are also a more cost-effective option for someone just starting out in straight razor shaving.
Carbon steel blades are often said to hold an edge better than stainless steel blades. This means it will require less time honing and stropping the blade to keep its edge. That being said, the carbon steel blade does require more maintenance, as it can rust and needs to be stored properly to prevent this from happening.
Blade points
You’ll find that the head or point of the blade will vary from razor to razor. The points include square, dutch, french, round, or Spanish. Each of these points has its unique characteristics, so it is important to understand the different types and how they will affect your shave.
Straight razors with rounded points are more forgiving for a beginner, as they will be less likely to cause cuts. Razor blades with more geometric or square points can provide more precise lines but are more likely to cut the skin.
Lesser known points include the barber’s notch, which is specially designed for regular opening and closing of the blade. However, this isn’t used anymore as barbershops use shavettes (more on this in a minute) due to sanitary reasons.
Wikipedia has a terrific section outlining blade points and grinds in further detail.
Blade grinds
The grind or the shape of the blade is created by the sharpening and honing process. When companies make a straight razor, they remove part of the steel to form the shape of a blade. When you look at various straight razors, you’ll see that they often have different grinds.
Hollow doesn’t mean that the blade is less sharp or empty on the inside; it just means more metal has been removed to create a concave design.
Common grinds, from thinnest to thickest, include the following: extra hollow, hollow, half hollow, quarter hollow, and wedge.
Beginners will be best suited for a hollow or half-hollow blade as they perform well on most facial hair types.
Extra hollow, or “singing” blades, can be used by experienced users who are looking for a very close shave. These blades tend to be quite delicate and are flexible.
Wedge grinds are great for really thick or coarse facial hair, as the blade is very rigid and won’t flex or bend.
Blade materials
Straight razors are often made from either stainless steel or carbon steel.
Stainless steel blades are more durable and don’t require as much maintenance as carbon steel blades. They are also a more cost-effective option for someone just starting out in straight razor shaving.
Carbon steel blades are often said to hold an edge better than stainless steel blades. This means that it will require less time honing and stropping the blade to keep its edge. That being said, the carbon steel blade does require more maintenance, as it can rust and needs to be stored properly to prevent this from happening.
Shavettes vs. traditional straight razors
Traditional straight razors and shavettes carry nearly identical designs, though the key difference between both of these razors is the blade.
Shavettes use replaceable blades. The blade is just a standard double edge razor blade, common in safety razors, split into two parts. Shavettes are commonly used in barbershops as they are sanitary, as the barber will switch out the blade after each customer.
Traditional straight razors, on the other hand, use a fixed, full-sized blade. These razors require regular maintenance, which includes honing and stropping the blade and properly caring for and storing it when not in use.
Maintenance
To care for a straight razor, you’ll need to hone and strop the blade. The blade should be honed once every 2-3 months. Honing should be done with a whetstone – ideally with a grit of 12k. If you aren’t comfortable with honing, some companies like Maggard Razors offer a honing service for as little as $28 for full hollow blades.
Stropping is the process of realigning the edge of the blade. This should be done before each shave and can be done with a leather strop. Stropping will help keep your blade sharp and can help with the longevity of the blade.
In addition to honing and stropping, it is important to properly care for and store your razor when not in use. This means cleaning it after each use and storing it in a dry environment. If you don’t have a razor storage case, wrapping the razor in a chamois or leather cloth can help prevent rusting.
Learning curve
The straight razor’s simplicity and complexity make it both a fascinating tool for learning and one that requires patience and practice. Don’t expect to gain a perfect shave the first time. With patience and practice, you will soon be able to master the art of straight razor shaving.
Most folks recommend only learning about a small and easy area of the face, such as the cheek or the sideburns, to get the hang of the straight razor’s unique characteristics and the amount of pressure that should be applied. With time and practice, you will soon be able to shave your entire face with confidence.
Of course, it is recommended to have an alum block or styptic pencil available in case of any nicks or cuts. Don’t be afraid of nicks and such, as these are to be expected when first starting.
Are you wondering if the double-edge safety razor may be better than the straight razor? Then, check our head-to-head comparison between these two shaving tools.
Benefits
Using a straight razor provides a unique experience, as it connects us to our elders who used similar tools to shave. In addition, taking the time to care for the razor, hone and strop, clean, and storage can provide a zen-like experience and a sense of accomplishment.
Another benefit of using a straight razor is that it is very eco-friendly. Single blades require no electricity, replacement blades, or cartridges, which leaves a minimal carbon footprint.
A straight razor also provides a close and smooth shave as the blade is sharper than standard cartridge razor blades.
Finally, with proper care and maintenance, a straight razor can last a lifetime, which reduces waste and saves money in the long run.
Drawbacks
There are several drawbacks to straight razors. The most notable is, of course, the lengthy learning curve. It will take weeks to master this tool, and as such, many cuts and nicks along the way.
Straight razors also require more frequent honing and stropping than other types of razors in order to keep the blade sharp. This can be time-consuming and require additional money to buy the necessary stones and strops.
Other lesser-mentioned drawbacks include the high initial cost, you cannot bring them in your carry-on when traveling, and they can only be used on your face and neck.
Brands
If you are considering buying a straight razor, then we recommend checking out offerings from Dovo, Feather, Thiers-Issard, and Boker. These brands are known for their quality and craftsmanship, and they offer a wide range of options for beginners and experienced users.